Melasma can be challenging to treat, but several topical ingredients have been shown to help reduce excess pigmentation and improve skin tone. While no cream works overnight, consistent use of the right ingredients, paired with daily sun protection, can help fade dark patches over time. Below are the ingredients dermatologists rely on most, and how each one works.
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If your melasma is stubborn or has not responded to over-the-counter products, in-office care may be the next step. Visit our professional melasma treatment page to learn about prescription medications, chemical peels, laser treatments, and personalized treatment plans.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is widely considered the gold standard topical ingredient for melasma. It works by reducing melanin production in the skin. In the United States, hydroquinone is now available only by prescription: the FDA removed over-the-counter hydroquinone products from the market in 2020, so effective, medical-grade formulations are prescribed and monitored by a dermatologist. Many patients do best with custom-made prescription formulations tailored to their skin type.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid reduces pigmentation while calming inflammation, which makes it a good choice for sensitive or breakout-prone skin. It can be used as part of a long-term skincare regimen. Learn more about what azelaic acid does for your skin.
Kojic Acid
Derived from fungi, kojic acid helps lighten discoloration by interfering with melanin production. It is commonly found in serums and brightening creams and pairs well with other ingredients.
Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid is one of the more significant recent advances for pigmentation. It targets melasma at its source rather than only the surface, and it can help reduce the appearance of melasma when used consistently as part of a comprehensive plan. See our guide to tranexamic acid for melasma for how it works.
Retinoids
Retinoids speed up skin cell turnover, helping pigmented cells shed more quickly. They are often combined with other actives to enhance results and are best introduced gradually, since they can be irritating if overused.
Daily Sunscreen Is Essential
Even the best melasma cream will have limited success without sun protection. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is one of the most important steps in preventing melasma from worsening, because ultraviolet and visible light both reactivate pigment. For help choosing a formula, see our guide to the best sunscreens for melasma. The American Academy of Dermatology also offers a helpful patient overview.
When to See a Dermatologist
Melasma often requires a customized treatment plan. Beyond topical products, some patients benefit from prescription medications, chemical peels, or laser treatments. A board-certified dermatologist can recommend the most appropriate approach based on your skin type and the depth and severity of your pigmentation.
For more information about professional melasma treatment options, visit our Melasma Treatment NYC page or schedule a consultation at .




